How can I secure this metal 1-gang electrical box without creating a bigger hole?
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
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add a comment |
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago
add a comment |
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
electrical drywall walls
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
asked 7 hours ago
Kai
1284
1284
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago
1
1
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tip of the threads.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
answered 6 hours ago
Ed Beal
30.7k12144
30.7k12144
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
Excellent! TIL "old work" is an actual term used in the naming of electrical boxes made for this exact purpose.
– Kai
1 hour ago
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
answered 7 hours ago
David
2815
2815
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
add a comment |
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
That's one way of doing it, and was the first thing that I thought of before I posted my answer. But those little buggers are not only difficult to work with, but they have sharp edges. Having said that, the old ones I have look different.
– Mike Waters
3 hours ago
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tip of the threads.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tip of the threads.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tip of the threads.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tip of the threads.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 3 hours ago
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
answered 7 hours ago
Mike Waters
32116
32116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
6 hours ago