Alloy wheel really stuck fast to the hub, any practical avoidance steps?











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Last night, in the wee small hours, I set about changing the brake discs (rotors) and pads on my 2012 VW Golf.



I lifted the car off the ground and removed all of the wheel bolts. I then found that the alloy wheel was stuck fast to the hub. After much jiggling, tapping, whacking, kicking, yarking and swearing, the wheel was finally persuaded to break away.



This was mildly annoying, it made the job take longer and just generally put me in a bad mood. However, had this happened at the roadside because of a flat tyre, at night, in the rain, with the kids in the car, it could have been more than just annoying.



In the past I've applied an amount of copper slip to the mounting faces to prevent this but I've been told that copper slip is considered by some to be bad practice because it can interfere with ABS sensors plus it can promote corrosion because it is effectively introducing yet another dissimilar metal into the mix.



So, is there some preventative technique I can apply prior to remounting the wheel that will prevent this struggle in the future?










share|improve this question


















  • 1




    ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
    – Martin
    1 hour ago










  • I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
    – GdD
    24 mins ago















up vote
4
down vote

favorite












Last night, in the wee small hours, I set about changing the brake discs (rotors) and pads on my 2012 VW Golf.



I lifted the car off the ground and removed all of the wheel bolts. I then found that the alloy wheel was stuck fast to the hub. After much jiggling, tapping, whacking, kicking, yarking and swearing, the wheel was finally persuaded to break away.



This was mildly annoying, it made the job take longer and just generally put me in a bad mood. However, had this happened at the roadside because of a flat tyre, at night, in the rain, with the kids in the car, it could have been more than just annoying.



In the past I've applied an amount of copper slip to the mounting faces to prevent this but I've been told that copper slip is considered by some to be bad practice because it can interfere with ABS sensors plus it can promote corrosion because it is effectively introducing yet another dissimilar metal into the mix.



So, is there some preventative technique I can apply prior to remounting the wheel that will prevent this struggle in the future?










share|improve this question


















  • 1




    ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
    – Martin
    1 hour ago










  • I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
    – GdD
    24 mins ago













up vote
4
down vote

favorite









up vote
4
down vote

favorite











Last night, in the wee small hours, I set about changing the brake discs (rotors) and pads on my 2012 VW Golf.



I lifted the car off the ground and removed all of the wheel bolts. I then found that the alloy wheel was stuck fast to the hub. After much jiggling, tapping, whacking, kicking, yarking and swearing, the wheel was finally persuaded to break away.



This was mildly annoying, it made the job take longer and just generally put me in a bad mood. However, had this happened at the roadside because of a flat tyre, at night, in the rain, with the kids in the car, it could have been more than just annoying.



In the past I've applied an amount of copper slip to the mounting faces to prevent this but I've been told that copper slip is considered by some to be bad practice because it can interfere with ABS sensors plus it can promote corrosion because it is effectively introducing yet another dissimilar metal into the mix.



So, is there some preventative technique I can apply prior to remounting the wheel that will prevent this struggle in the future?










share|improve this question













Last night, in the wee small hours, I set about changing the brake discs (rotors) and pads on my 2012 VW Golf.



I lifted the car off the ground and removed all of the wheel bolts. I then found that the alloy wheel was stuck fast to the hub. After much jiggling, tapping, whacking, kicking, yarking and swearing, the wheel was finally persuaded to break away.



This was mildly annoying, it made the job take longer and just generally put me in a bad mood. However, had this happened at the roadside because of a flat tyre, at night, in the rain, with the kids in the car, it could have been more than just annoying.



In the past I've applied an amount of copper slip to the mounting faces to prevent this but I've been told that copper slip is considered by some to be bad practice because it can interfere with ABS sensors plus it can promote corrosion because it is effectively introducing yet another dissimilar metal into the mix.



So, is there some preventative technique I can apply prior to remounting the wheel that will prevent this struggle in the future?







wheels wheel-hub






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asked 3 hours ago









Steve Matthews

19.6k22969




19.6k22969








  • 1




    ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
    – Martin
    1 hour ago










  • I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
    – GdD
    24 mins ago














  • 1




    ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
    – Martin
    1 hour ago










  • I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
    – GdD
    24 mins ago








1




1




ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
– Martin
1 hour ago




ceramic based anti seize is as good as copper slip without being metallic
– Martin
1 hour ago












I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
– GdD
24 mins ago




I've had this happen to me, flat tire at 10pm in a deserted and not nice part of town and the wheel wouldn't come off. After that I've kept a lump hammer in the back in case it happened again. Also good for breaking open fossil rocks.
– GdD
24 mins ago










1 Answer
1






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up vote
3
down vote













Even with steel wheels I have had this.



Always used a VERY light coat of grease or copper slip and made sure both mating surfaces are clean and free of corrosion.



Even now with the jag I had the same issue when I first got it - now they are clean and with a finger smear so lightly greased and they don't stick...



Never had any issue with abs getting contaminated, but the abs ring is at the back away from where the wheel mounts...






share|improve this answer





















  • Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
    – MadMarky
    3 hours ago











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1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes








up vote
3
down vote













Even with steel wheels I have had this.



Always used a VERY light coat of grease or copper slip and made sure both mating surfaces are clean and free of corrosion.



Even now with the jag I had the same issue when I first got it - now they are clean and with a finger smear so lightly greased and they don't stick...



Never had any issue with abs getting contaminated, but the abs ring is at the back away from where the wheel mounts...






share|improve this answer





















  • Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
    – MadMarky
    3 hours ago















up vote
3
down vote













Even with steel wheels I have had this.



Always used a VERY light coat of grease or copper slip and made sure both mating surfaces are clean and free of corrosion.



Even now with the jag I had the same issue when I first got it - now they are clean and with a finger smear so lightly greased and they don't stick...



Never had any issue with abs getting contaminated, but the abs ring is at the back away from where the wheel mounts...






share|improve this answer





















  • Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
    – MadMarky
    3 hours ago













up vote
3
down vote










up vote
3
down vote









Even with steel wheels I have had this.



Always used a VERY light coat of grease or copper slip and made sure both mating surfaces are clean and free of corrosion.



Even now with the jag I had the same issue when I first got it - now they are clean and with a finger smear so lightly greased and they don't stick...



Never had any issue with abs getting contaminated, but the abs ring is at the back away from where the wheel mounts...






share|improve this answer












Even with steel wheels I have had this.



Always used a VERY light coat of grease or copper slip and made sure both mating surfaces are clean and free of corrosion.



Even now with the jag I had the same issue when I first got it - now they are clean and with a finger smear so lightly greased and they don't stick...



Never had any issue with abs getting contaminated, but the abs ring is at the back away from where the wheel mounts...







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 3 hours ago









Solar Mike

17.4k21030




17.4k21030












  • Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
    – MadMarky
    3 hours ago


















  • Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
    – MadMarky
    3 hours ago
















Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
– MadMarky
3 hours ago




Just a light coat of grease works well for me too. Contamination is really only an issue if you apply too much and the excess grease/copper slip gets hurled away from the wheel hub.
– MadMarky
3 hours ago


















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